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Encyclopedia ID 76

Wave riding

Also known as Heʻe nalu · surfing · surf break

Wave riding: photograph by Brigittebourger Brigitte Bourger
Photo: Brigittebourger Brigitte Bourger, CC BY-SA 4.0, source on Wikimedia Commons

Paddle into a swell, pop up and carve across the face of the wave, steering to stay in the pocket and dodge the foam as the wave breaks.

Heritage note

A tradition shared by communities in many places.

Origins

Usually placed in the era of Modern Heritage (1800 to today), although its exact origins are uncertain, within the cultural world of Pacific and Oceania.

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Sources

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